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From Bunnings
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BEFORE STARTING
• Attempt to finish the job or each room in the same day.
• The room temperature must be about 18° and the floor temperature
15°C before starting, humidity between 50 - 70%.
• The under floor must be dry, even, stable and clean.
• Ensure the 10mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the wall is
maintained.
• Plan out the room size and layout, remembering that laminate flooring
must be laid separately in each room - do not lay continuously from
one room to another. For large rooms over 50m2- or more than 8m in
length, the floor should be split up into several parts.
STEP 1
If your sub-floor is concrete, lay a damp-proof PE membrane 0.2mm
thick over all existing sub-floors, overlapping each join by 200mm and
turned up the wall by 30mm. Fix with adhesive tape. Be careful to allow
enough room around door frames.
STEP 2
Next lay a 2mm foam underlay, in the same direction as the membrane,
along the length of the room taping the entire seam with a 48mm silver
PVC tape.
STEP 3
Begin laying the flooring in a left hand corner, along the longest stretch
of wall with the tongue facing the wall in the same direction as the PE
membrane and foam underlay. Place the plastic wedges/spacer blocks
300mm apart to maintain a 10mm expansion gap between the panel
and the walls edge. Use a string line to check that the row is
correctly aligned.
STEP 4
You will most likely have a piece left over from the first row, so use this
to start the second row. The planks should be in a staggered/random
brick pattern, so make sure the planks are about 400mm on either side
of the join in the previous row. Assembled the planks by applying a
bead of glue to the grooves on the edge and end of each piece. The
tongue of the next piece is pushed into the groove until the two planks
are firmly seated against one another (wipe the excess glue with a
damp rag). You can tap the pieces together using a tapping block and
hammer or a pinch bar to pull the pieces together.
TIP: When cutting planks, always saw from the upper surface of the
panel in order to avoid splintering the edges. When using an electric
jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw, the patterned side must be
facing downward.
NOTE: Some laminate planks don't need gluing, refer to specific product
instructions.
STEP 5
Using a hammer and tapping block, tap the boards together immediately.
If the board is at the end of a row, knock together the end joints with
a wedge firmly in place
STEP 6
When installing planks around pipes or columns, mark the centre on
the panel, drill holes 10mm larger than the pipes and then cut the panel
through the centre of the holes that have been drilled. Once you have
measured the last panel, use the pinch bar to carefully lock it in. Remove
all of the plastic wedges. Finally, inspect the floor and use a laminate
flooring colour fill to fill any uneven joints or gaps between planks.
Once this is completed the laid floor can be walked on straight away
and furniture can be returned to the room. Then move onto another
room.
STEP 6
• Use a soft brush, vacuum cleaner or active fibre mop. If the floor is
very dirty, firstly vacuum to remove dust and loose dirt then add a
cap-full of methylated spirits to a bucket of warm water, and use a clean
slightly damp cloth to wipe away the dirty marks. Dry off immediately
with a clean rag.
• Do not clean laminate flooring with wax, polish, floor cleaner, detergent
or scouring materials.
CLEANING THE FLOOR
STEP 6
• Be careful to use felt pads, plastic rugs and mats to protect your
flooring from furniture damage.
• Do not wax or varnish laminate flooring. |
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